23 August
Biesbosch

We awoke to the most glorious morning. The water was glassy smooth and the sky blue and cloudless. What a difference to yesterday morning. Even Skip got up early and spent an hour reading on deck in the early morning cool while I was still tucked up in my bunk.

We cast off about 10.30 and ambled through the channels looking for somewhere to moor where we could get the bikes ashore. All the spots were lovely, but no cycle paths, so we continued on up to Werkendam, just before the channel rejoins the Merwerde river. There are a couple of yacht harbours there but we did not like the look of any of them. Back down the channel we went to the other end, where it joins the Maas River. Up a side creek, we came across a charming small haven, JH Vissershang. Despite all the to-ing and fro-ing we were tied up by 13:30 and put the bikes ashore after lunch. 

The day trip boat was doing great business today. Look at all those people on deck.

I plotted us a cycle route and we spent the afternoon puttering around farmland, tiny villages, national park and eventually all the way along a high dike bordering the river. It was a bit hot, and we could have done with more trees, but still a nice way to spend the afternoon. We did have to stop a couple of times to let the blood back into the bottoms - BB's (bottom breaks) = excuses for coffee.


We could have done with more tree-lined stretches like this ...

 

... but our route took us mostly through open farmland.

At the one coffee stop, we were sat out on a wide terrace of a large building along with dozens of other cyclists taking refuge under the shady umbrellas. As I drank my coffee I though there was an "interesting" aroma around, but didn't want to say anything in case it was my imagination. When I went indoors to pay, the aroma got stronger and I realized that the back of the building was a huge stables with an indoor exercise arena where a lovely horse was being put through his paces. I rushed out to get the camera, but sadly he had just finished and was being led back to his stall.

Waiting for the ferry ...

... which cost .75 cents to cross the river. Tickets from the ferrywoman.

Back aboard we dug out the fans as it is 30.4 inside the boat and 33 on the aft deck. Skip muttering about air conditioners, but that is a step way too far.

The local radio reported that this is the hottest day of the year in Holland this year with temperatures reaching 33 in places - the aft deck of Zoe being one of them.

Mussels for supper ....

22 August
Dordrecht to Biesbosch

We had planned to be out of the harbour at Dordrecht with the 10 am opening of the bridge, but no-one appeared to open the small bridge dividing the harbour in half, until about a minute before 10 and by the time we arrived at the big bridge it was closing. So we tied up for another hour and left at the 11am opening. Not that it mattered. It was still raining.

A convoy of us left port with the 11am bridge.

The 5km down the Wantij went quickly as all 4 of the bridges were high enough for us to cruise through with the mast down. Through the lock, turn right into the huge Merwede river, left again 1km later, another lock and we were into the national park of the Biesbosch. In the rain and stiff breeze, it all looked uninviting, but we eventually found a small dock with only one boat on it and tucked ourselves up behind some trees.

There was just one boat on the small dock when we tied up.

Over the next hour or so the skies cleared, the wind died and the sun came out. What a difference! Absolutely gorgeous. Also the dock filled up and eventually 9 boats managed to squeeze in. Very peaceful.

Even though we were eventually 9 boats, it was still gloriously peaceful.

The dock is on a small island, with no shore access for bikes, so Skip spent the afternoon finishing off the installation of the water-level meter while I hand-langed.

"Let's have a braai ashore, this evening." Skip suggested, so we put our folding camp chair (comfy) and our hard folding chair from the aft deck (not so comfy) ashore together with the weber (luckily the gas pipe is long enough) and had a most enjoyable evening on the lawn next to the boat.

Enjoying the early evening air.

"Pity we don't have 2 of those camp chairs." said Skip, who was sitting bolt upright on the hard chair while I reclined.

"Have you ever got down on your tummy with the torch and scrabbled around in that locker under the dinette?", I asked. "You never know what might turn up way back in there."

Minutes later Skip returned triumphant, a second camp chair in hand. "LOOK!"

"Any other treasures in there?" I wondered ....

Skip, very pleased with himself and his camp chair.

21 August
Dordrecht, still

Luckily this is a great place to spend some days, 'cos today poured most of the day. We did have the odd spell of sunshine when we thought "OK, let's go", only for the heavens to open again shortly after.

So, it became a day of below decks maintenance and installation.

Skip spent most of the morning upside down in the bilges, lockers, etc. and most of the afternoon with wires and electronic bits.

I could not resist taking this ;)

I will leave him to elaborate.

Skip here: "I was tidying up wiring and installing the fresh water-tank meter which will tell us how much is in the tanks. I was also going through the "work-shop locker" and chucking out unused bits like a coffee maker that was taking up too much space."

I spent the morning writing yesterday's blog and sorting photos - discarding blurry, overexposed, underexposed, duplicates and any ugly ones of myself ;), while nibbling on the biltong we had forgotten at the back of the fridge.

The sun eventually came out in the afternoon so Skip put his bike ashore and went for a ride while I took a stroll around town. I discovered that the two museums, right here on the quayside behind the boat, are open on a sunday afternoon so I visited both. The one was lovely, the other interesting.



In the center of the pic is the Huis van Gijn with the 1940-1945 museum next door. Zoe was moored right in front.

The lovely one is the House van Gijn. Van Gijn was a wealthy business man, lawyer, and a prominent historian and collector. He lived in the house on the quayside here from 1864 until his death in 1922. When he died, childless, he left his house and collection to a local historical society with the provision that it be turned into a musem open to the public.

On my wanderings around these old dutch towns, I often wish I could see behind the huge doors and windows, and it was such a treat to finally do so.

And quite the collector old Mr van Gijn was. The original interiors from the 17th, 18th & 19th centuries have been maintained, and stuffed full of his extensive collections. Much is made of the gilt leather room (unique in Holland) dating from 1686 but I gotta tell you, it is UUUUGLY!



A sneak pic of the hallway.

The museum right next door is dedicated to Dordrecht 1940-1945 and is a most interesting collection of mostly donated items from this period in the town's history. I found it fascinating and spent over an hour there.

For the most part I stayed dry - during one heavy shower I took shelter under a cloister in the Augustinian monestry. In the square outside a bad rock band was giving it stick and I imagined the monks turning in their many graves.

The Augustinian monestry, Het Hof. A meeting here in 1572 by the 12 cities of Holland marks the beginning of the Dutch state.

I also got the charts out of the Biesbosch, which is going to be our next destination.

The Biesbosch is an extensive national park and one of the last freshwater tidal estuaries in Europe.  It is criss-crossed with tidal channels, willow woods, grasslands and fields of reeds. The channels and sandbanks are constantly changing so an up-to-date chart is essential (we purchased one yesterday).

20th August
Dordrecht
(Reminder: click on the photos to make them bigger)

"We need to find a supermarket." I told Skip, after a look in the fridge, this morning.

A quick consult with the ever reliable Mr Google informed us that happily Saturdays are market day in Dordrecht. YAY!

Bikes ashore, we followed a stream of people through town all headed for the market square.

 

I love markets, and can spend ages browsing the stalls. This market seemed to specialise in seafood in a variety of forms - whole raw, prepared raw, smoked, pickled, dried, marinaded, cooked, etc etc.

Skip admiring the catch.

Are'nt these smoked mackrel a wondrous colour.
They smelled pretty good, too.

"Get a picture!" Skip urged, impressed with the array as he purchased a Mossel Pakket (mussel box), which included 3kg of mussels, a bag of chopped vegetables and a sachet of seasoning. Simple instructions - boil the veg and sachet in a little water and wine and then chuck in the mussels till they open - 8 euros.

Preparing "Niuwe" haring. An acquired taste which I have no intention of acquiring.

We still had to find a supermarket, and discovered the Albert Heijn around the corner. I know we seem to only ever shop at the Heijn, but this trip they allways seem to be the closest. I can hear Jim admonishing me in my ear and yes, I know they are the most expensive shop (a bit like Waitrose in the UK) BUT I am uninclined to schlep around town hunting for the Lidl to save 10 cents on a box of something or another. And they do have lovely goodies too.

So, back to the boat with LOADED panniers. And talking about panniers, how about this one ...

:):):)

Like trams, Skip can never resist a ferry, so despite how much time we already spend on the water, we hopped aboard the ferry across the river with the bikes. There was a lovely cycle path down the riverside imbetween immaculate gardens and trees interspersed with dozens of scultures.

Me neither, but I know it's female 'cos of the boobs

Dordrecht from the ferry.

Back on the Dordrecht side, we cycled along the canal to an area we had spotted from the ferry where the river is lined with bars and restaurants with outdoor seating. We found ourselves a comfy spot and enjoyed a beer. Leffe for Skip and a low alcohol Jupiler for me.

Hearing bells, on the way back to the boat, we paused at the church yard where a pantechnicon (sic) was parked. The sides were down revealing a carillion of bells and an organist (?) playing the bells. A sign on the side informed that it is the Carillion of the Czech Republic. We hung around listening for awhile, although I found they hurt my ears, so I had to step back a bit.

The Czech Carillion - it has 57 bells and was very tuneful.

 

Back to the boat for mussels for dinner.



PS: Only for those interested in history.

Dordrecht has an impressive array of beautiful old buildings, despite losing many during WWII.

The town is built at the confluence of three large rivers, one the main tributary of the Rhine and the other two coming up from Belgium and France. The town's location made it an important market town and once it was given "Staple Rights" it became one of the wealthiest in the state. The Staple Rights dictated that every ship bringing goods in from Germany, France and Belgium were required to unload and trade their goods in Dordrecht. The town flourished and the merchants built impressive houses to flaunt their wealth.

The town declined during the 18thC when the Staple Rights were rescinded and Rotterdam and Amsterdam took over as the main trading centers. This meant that the town remained largely unchanged leaving the charming harbours and buildings pretty much as is.

There are a number of havens in the town, lined with old warehouses and mansions that make perfect yacht harbours.

19 August
Delft to Dordrecht

Realising we would be entering the tidal stream at Rotterdam, we checked the tidal time table on HD Boating with not a little trepidation. Were we in for a dawn departure? Would we have to leave too late to make it all the way to Dordrecht?

Playing with the big boys again.

In the event, we had to drop our lines at a respectable 9:30 to make it down stream to the lock at Rotterdam for the low tide at midday.

Yes, we also had to look twice.
Skip wondered if he had lost his way.

The day progressed uneventfully, with Skip doing all the work up on deck, and yours truly sitting below sorting out photos and writing yesterdays blog.

I suppose the buildings in the foreground are protected, so they had to get creative.

The trip was 36 km which we managed in 4 1/2 hours - dodging huge barges all the way.

We had been to Dordrecht with Pat and Jim on their boat Hjeljun (sic) many years ago and we decided to go into the same haven. It is very charming, as is the whole town, with a very friendly harbourmaster. 17 Euros a night including wifi, electricity, water, showers etc.

Dordrecht binnehaven

We have been spending a lot of time off the boat exploring and indulging in day-long expeditions, which is great but poor old Zoe was calling out for some TLC so we spent the afternoon scrubbing and polishing. That's better - nice and shiny again.

The pizza on the BBQ worked a treat. Only a small Weber, so we cut it in half and did one at a time on the griddle plate. Hmmmmmm. Now for a nice glass of Port.


Finished the evening watching the Team GB girls beat the Dutch at olympic hockey on the local TV. It was a very exciting match which the British girls won unexpectedly. The Dutch were mortified and the woman doing the commentating in the TV studio was in tears and could hardly speak! The British were ecstatic on the other hand.

18 August
Delft

"Is'nt Kok Watersports somewhere around here?" asked Skip over his Weetabix.

A quick question to Mr Google, who I know I have mentioned before as the answer to all things, and we had plotted a bike route 10km downstream.

Ian and Sian will recognise this doorway.

It was a lovely ride with the canal on one side and charming farmhouses on the other. On this side of the canal it is surprisingly rural until one approaches Rotterdam.

Happy Skip.

Kok Watersports, the chandlery shop, was all we expected and Skip had a lovely time browsing. He bought a few little stainless bits and bobs and we also came home with a water-heater to attach to the engine so we can have hot showers without having to switch on the electric one, which chomps battery power.

We were back on the boat by 11 and decided to catch the little tram we had seen going in and out of the nearby station. We had no idea where it went, but it looked like fun.

We can never resist a tram, and this one turned out to be a great ride.

It turned out to be a most fortuitous choice, as the tram went right through the neighbouring city of The Hague, past all the sights, and out to the coast at the seaside town of Scheveningen, where we got off for lunch.

The 5* hotel Kurhaus. The tram dropped us off right outside.

WOW - what a place. Yes, we have seen seaside towns on this trip, but this was on a whole other level.

A side-long glance at the menu as I passed was enough to tell me we were'nt lunching here today.

The Promenade

And surprisingly upmarket too. A definite lack of tat. We enjoyed a walk along the pier with the added entertainment of the bungy-jumpers at the end. They seemed to be enjoying the experience, but we were happy to remain spectators.

Kiddie trampoline heaven.

Yee-ha! Caught the shot just as he leapt.

On the pier.
 

Kibbeling for lunch, of course, it being the seaside and then the tram back to Delft.

Skip waiting patiently while I ...

 

...photograph an impressive coat of arms.

I decided it was time for a walk and took myself off to wander the old town center while Skip got back on his bike and went to look for the nearby park. When we met up again later, he reported it to be a fine place indeed. I thoroughly enjoyed the stroll and window shopping. I stopped in at the Heijn for a pizza which we are going to try on the Weber tomorrow night after the predicted long day on the tidal stretch up to Dordrecht.

18th August
Katwijk to Delft

Another lovely day. Sunny blue skies, yet again. It's getting to be a habit - long may it last.

We had 30 km to do today, all of it downriver, and all of it suburban. There were minimal waits at the bridges and we made good time.

This was an unusual shaped lock - narrow at one end and WIDE at the other.

The visitors' harbour in Delft is not the most attractive, and we almost continued on past.  We decided to tie up for a short time, though, while we perused the charts to try and figure out an alternative.  A very friendly harbourmaster gave us a hand mooring, and he was so gushing about his town he talked us into staying. And guess what? We're going to stay two nights.

The only remaining city gate into Delft and a cutie it is, too.

The haven is in a biggish basin at the confluence of two canals and could be really nice if they invested a bit in extra docks and planted some trees. There is a huge railway project going on just beyond, and perhaps when it is finished they will do something about the haven.  They still charged 13 euros, though, and power is via a pay meter, 50cents a go. We'll have to start saving coins again.

We took a bike ride through the old city and the harbourmaster was right, it is charming. Lovely old buildings, squares, canals, leaning towers and huge churches with imressive spires. Plenty of streetside cafe's and lovely shops to browse. I can see I will spend some time here tomorrow.

And, of course, the one thing we all know about Delft is they have made pottery here for centuries, so we took a tour of the Royal Delft pottery works, the only one of the original factories still in operation.

A Royal Delft version of the 'Night Watch' with modern additions.

"Look!", I pointed to Skip. "A lovely coffee shop."
"You should'nt call it that." he said.
So, OK, the Royal Delft factory has a lovely tea shop.

TOURIST TRAP, TOURIST TRAP! They shoulda had a sign outside, but anyway. They did have a nice coffee shop in a lovely small courtyard garden and Skip snuck off and bought me a pretty christmas bell to hang on our tree :) - good boy Skip, good boy.